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Container/Specl/Hous/GrH

Houseplant Care

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#1 of 7

     Posted Oct-30 3:22 PM   
Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
 
From  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a  Posts 13683  Last 6:30 AM
To  All      [Msg # 197538.1 ]    
By Bob Westerfield
University of Georgia

When wintry weather rolls in, landscape plants must fend off 
cold temperatures and frost on their own. But some potted 
plants are lucky enough to get a free pass indoors. 

Without proper care, though, these new houseplants can have 
difficulty living through the winter indoors. There are some 
things you can do to make sure they survive just fine.

First, consider the temperature. Many container plants live on 
outdoor porches during the summer and early fall months. As 
temperatures dip to 50 degrees or less, plant owners begin to 
move plants indoors. 

The best way to protect outdoor potted plants is to first bring 
them into a garage or basement that is a little warmer than the 
outdoors, but not as toasty as inside the house. If the plants 
are moved immediately from 50 degrees to 75 degrees, some may 
become stressed and suffer. 

Plants should be acclimated slowly by a gradual increase in 
temperature. After a week or two, bring the plants into the 
warm house. 

Most house plants grow best in daytime temperatures between 65 
degrees and 75 degrees and nighttime temperatures between 60 
degrees and 65 degrees. To further protect them, keep 
houseplants away from cold, drafty windows or hot radiators, 
stoves or air vents. Also keep houseplant foliage from touching 
cold windows. This can burn the leaves.

Humidity is important. Most houseplants prefer a humidity level 
of 40 percent to 50 percent. The relative humidity in most 
homes is closer to 15 percent – a level much too low for most 
houseplants.

Raise humidity levels by using a humidifier or grouping plants 
together. Placing houseplants on saucers filled with gravel or 
small pebbles and water will also increase humidity. The 
bottoms of the pots should always be above the water level.

Don’t mist houseplants in an effort to raise the relative 
humidity. Misting would have to be done several times 
throughout the day to have any real affect.

In general, houseplants don’t require as much water during the 
winter months. That doesn’t mean they can be completely 
ignored. The type of houseplant and soil will determine the 
water needs. 

Ferns prefer evenly moist soil and fairly frequent watering. 
Cacti and succulents should only be watered when the potting 
soil becomes completely dry. Most houseplants fall somewhere 
between these extremes and should be watered when the soil is 
barely moist or almost dry to the touch. 

When watering, apply a thorough amount. Water the plant until 
water drains out of the bottom of the pot. 

Be sure that plants have good drainage. Never allow plants to 
sit in excess water unless the pot is placed on gravel to raise 
humidity.

Drastically reduce or eliminate fertilizer during the winter 
months since most plants grow very little. Fertilize again in 
late March or April as growing conditions improve and the 
plants begin to flush out.

It’s important to keep houseplants clean while they rest 
through the winter. Grease and dust can accumulate on leaves 
and slow down the normal transpiration. Cleaning houseplants 
also improves their appearance, stimulates growth and can help 
control insects and mites.

Large, firm-leafed plants can be cleaned with a soft sponge or 
cloth dipped in a mild solution of dishwashing soap and 
lukewarm water. Leaves can also be cleaned by placing the 
plants in the shower under lukewarm water.

(Bob Westerfield is a Cooperative Extension horticulturist with the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. Article quoted by permission granted by UGA.)

 


Edited Nov-13   by  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
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#2 of 7

     Posted Nov-4 10:25 AM   
mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6
 
From  mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6  Posts 1901  Last 11:18 AM
To  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a      [Msg # 197538.2 Message 197538.2 replying to 197538.1 197538.1 ]    

When you bring your plants in from outside, would this be the best time to trim and re-pot?

Molly

Women's Forum

Gardening Forum

The Earth Laughs with Flowers  -  Emerson

 

 

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#3 of 7

     Posted Nov-4 1:35 PM   
Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
 
From  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a  Posts 13683  Last 6:30 AM
To  mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6      [Msg # 197538.3 Message 197538.3 replying to 197538.2 197538.2 ]    

It's best to repot (pot on) when they're ready to go out again in the spring. They don't make much growth in the winter, and all that extra soil can sit and sour before the plant puts out new roots. Sometimes the plant will develop root rot in the meantime.

Trimming depends on whether you absolutely have to in order to get the plant into the house. Severe pruning now can lead to long, lanky growth because of lower light levels in your house. It's actually best to prune a month or so before you bring the plant in, or when you're putting them out in the springtime.

d

 

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#4 of 7

     Posted Nov-4 2:14 PM   
mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6
 
From  mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6  Posts 1901  Last 11:18 AM
To  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a      [Msg # 197538.4 Message 197538.4 replying to 197538.3 197538.3 ]    

Makes sense.  So if you wanted to over winter begonias, bring them in to a cool, but warmer place and then bring them into the house after a couple weeks or so.  Don't repot or trim until you put them back out in the spring.  Got it! 

So the best time, if you wanted to divide them would be in the spring also, when your repotting.

 

Molly

Women's Forum

Gardening Forum

The Earth Laughs with Flowers  -  Emerson

 

 

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#5 of 7

     Posted Nov-4 4:05 PM   
Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
 
From  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a  Posts 13683  Last 6:30 AM
To  mjgallaway/WA St/Zone 6      [Msg # 197538.5 Message 197538.5 replying to 197538.4 197538.4 ]    

The step-up in temp stage if you leave your plants to the last minute, which many of us do. I try (though don't always succeed) to bring my plants in during that interval between needing air conditioning and needing heat, when the day temps are still in the 70's. That way, I don't need to transition them. They can get used to the dimmer light in the house without having to deal with the temps, too.

You got it on the dividing, too. I usually start dividing/repotting plants in February when the daylight hours begin to lengthen and they're ready to grow. That way, they're getting enough light to grow strongly and be ready to put back outside in April. Up north, March would probably be better. It seems to me that's when I started my potting frenzy when I lived in NJ. It was something to do to keep from sowing new seed too early while satisfying that spring planting need.

d

Don't miss the Garden Trivia Contest beginning December 1!

 


Edited Nov-14   by  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
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#6 of 7

     Posted Nov-14 6:31 PM   
jacksonfavored
 
From  jacksonfavored  Posts 1  Last Nov-14
To  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a      [Msg # 197538.6 Message 197538.6 replying to 197538.1 197538.1 ]    
What is the reason for the gnats on houseplants and what can be done to rid plants of them?
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#7 of 7

     Posted Nov-14 6:56 PM   
Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a
 
From  Daryl/Ga/Zone 7a  Posts 13683  Last 6:30 AM
To  jacksonfavored      [Msg # 197538.7 Message 197538.7 replying to 197538.6 197538.6 ]    

Gnats around houseplants are usually fungus gnats and they appear because the soil is too moist. Allowing the top of the soil to dry out between waterings will help. So will putting some dry sand on top of the soil, but let the top of the soil dry before you add the sand.

If you're in a part of the world where the heat is on and the winter air is drying things out, you'll soon be rid of them if you don't water too much.

There are a couple of products that will kill the gnat larvae (the larvae eat roots). I used "Gnatrol" when I had a huge problem with my greenhouse plants one year when it was dark and dreary, and the soil didn't have a chance to dry out. It's pretty expensive though. It's easier to dry the soil. Most of the time, winter heating and maybe an extra fan will do the job. It takes a while for the adults to die off once the top layer of soil is dry, so you'll need a bit of patience, too.

Here's a link to fungus gnat control.  http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/INSECT/05584.html

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, please ask. We're here to help.

d

 

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