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Plumbing/Electric/HVAC

Contents for 4" Box

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#1 of 12

     Posted Oct-8 10:00 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  All      [Msg # 16530.1 ]    

My neighbors just moved into their new house. Behind their igniter-lit gas cooktop is a place where the igniter is supposed to plug in. However, at the moment it's just a 4" metal box with some wires in it and a blank metal plate covering it.

Here's a picture of what (approximately) it looks like:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=70940-427-8146&lpage=none

It has two screws on opposing corners. I've looked at the electrical equipment on Lowe's Web site, but I'm not completely sure what parts are needed to fit that box with a 110 v. outlet and a cover.

I found this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=72447-427-8771&lpage=none

but how does that mesh with a standard duplex electrical socket?

Thanks for any advice.

Update: The cover of that box under that stove was square, so the box may also be square.  Otherwise the issue remains pretty much the same.



Edited Oct-8   by  Bill Boyd
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#2 of 12

     Posted Oct-9 9:45 AM   
John Barreiro
 
From  John Barreiro  Posts 34  Last Nov-24
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16530.2 Message 16530.2 replying to 16530.1 16530.1 ]    
What normally fits that box is what is called a "mud/plaster ring" which allows a lamp or fixture to attach when installed in a ceiling or wall under the plaster or whatever the wall is covered with. That is NOT designed for an outlet, although they make a cover that will take a single gang power outlet; those can be hard to find at the big box stores, more of a electrical supply house item.

If it was intended for an outlet, someone put the wrong box in place, IMO.

How you making out with the stuck drill bit?
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#3 of 12

     Posted Oct-9 10:19 AM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  John Barreiro      [Msg # 16530.3 Message 16530.3 replying to 16530.2 16530.2 ]    

Thanks for the information. I found several things that might be useful in that box:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=72447-427-8771&lpage=none

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=27387-427-808&lpage=none

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=72451-427-8807/907&lpage=none

I'm not sure which of those (if any) would work best with a standard duplex outlet.

I work on that stuck drill bit every few days. By now it's reached the state called in the book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" a "gumption trap": "anything that causes one to lose sight of quality and thus enthusiasm for what one is doing".

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#4 of 12

     Posted Oct-9 12:33 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  All      [Msg # 16530.4 Message 16530.4 replying to 16530.3 16530.3 ]    
On further thought, it's now evident to me that the box under that cooktop was intended for use by a 220 v. range. Does that add anything to the explanation of why it's is as it is?
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#5 of 12

     Posted Oct-10 11:17 AM   
Howard Norman
 
From  Howard Norman  Posts 61  Last Nov-24
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16530.5 Message 16530.5 replying to 16530.4 16530.4 ]    
On further thought, it's now evident to me that the box under that cooktop was intended for use by a 220 v. range. Does that add anything to the explanation of why it's is as it is?

Yes, very much to me. I have never seen a range outlet in anything but a four inch square box. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen but a four inch box is all that I have seen in that application.
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#6 of 12

     Posted Oct-10 10:05 PM   
John Barreiro
 
From  John Barreiro  Posts 34  Last Nov-24
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16530.6 Message 16530.6 replying to 16530.3 16530.3 ]    
I don't think that any one of those is going to do the job without at least drilling some new holes.

Ahh, Zen...that is the point where I say "F-it" and drill another hole next to it and try to break the stuck bit off.

I had a worker get a star drill stuck on a cinder block wall once. We wound up chiseling a bigger hole around the shank, cutting the stuck bit with a torch and filling the hole with cement.
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#7 of 12

     Posted Oct-10 11:23 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  Howard Norman      [Msg # 16530.7 Message 16530.7 replying to 16530.5 16530.5 ]    
Do you have any suggestions about how to fit a 110 v. outlet into such a box, given that the only mounting holes are in the corners?
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#8 of 12

     Posted Oct-10 11:27 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  John Barreiro      [Msg # 16530.8 Message 16530.8 replying to 16530.6 16530.6 ]    
I actually need about a 1/2" hole for that coax cable. I guess I should try one of my spade bits on the end of my bit extender. Since the spade bit shank isn't completely round at the back end, it's less likely to spin in the extender.
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#9 of 12

     Posted Oct-11 12:17 AM   
Howard Norman
 
From  Howard Norman  Posts 61  Last Nov-24
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16530.9 Message 16530.9 replying to 16530.7 16530.7 ]    
A couple of weeks ago I picked up a metal cover for such a box that I mounted a standard 110v outlet and a switch in at Home Depot. I don't recall if they had one for a single outlet or not. I am almost positive that they had one for two outlets. You have to break the ears off of the outlets and/or switches to mount them but they break off easily with a pair of pliers. The outlets mount to the metal cover and then you mount the cover to the box using the corner screws.

h

Edited Oct-11   by  Howard Norman
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#10 of 12

     Posted Oct-11 11:03 AM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  Howard Norman      [Msg # 16530.10 Message 16530.10 replying to 16530.9 16530.9 ]    
Thanks for that information.
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#11 of 12

     Posted Oct-11 11:12 AM   
John Barreiro
 
From  John Barreiro  Posts 34  Last Nov-24
To  Bill Boyd      [Msg # 16530.11 Message 16530.11 replying to 16530.8 16530.8 ]    
A long 1/2 drill is not that expensive, -relatively speaking to the cost of the spade, the extender and all the PITA that a slipping extender can cause. I have yet to find one that didn't slip.

The problem is that the spade bit's shanks are softer than the the cutting surfaces and will get gauged by the set-screws of the extender.

BTDT.

They also make "Bell Hanger's" drill bits that are long, have big cutting ends but a 1/4 or 3/8 shank. HERE TOO

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#12 of 12

     Posted Oct-11 4:41 PM   
Bill Boyd
 
From  Bill Boyd  Posts 376  Last Nov-22
To  John Barreiro      [Msg # 16530.12 Message 16530.12 replying to 16530.11 16530.11 ]    
My spade bits already have a six-sided lower shank. I think I'll try that with my bit extender before I buy anything else. Those bits weren't expensive, so if they're damaged it won't be that great a loss.
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Contents for 4" Box

  
 
     

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